9/15
After getting bitched out for coming into lab at the same time I had frequently been coming in for the past few months (the boss doesn't care what time you come in unless he wants to talk to you and you happen to not be there), I still managed to sneak out early and meet Cindy at my place to take off for Austin.
We arrived and immediately met Becca and Ali at East-side taqueria
El Chilito. Apparently we should have gone to sister establishment El Chile as, on the eve of former Texas Governor Anne Richards' funeral, former President William Jefferson Clinton was, we later heard, supping there. Damn would I have liked to have bought that man a beer.
But if ifs and buts were candy and nuts... and you know the rest. El Chilito made a good, authentic taco (on corn tortillas, even), and served up a big, cheap Lonestar.
I dropped my car off at Ali's and they dropped Cindy and I off downtown within spitting distance of the Paramount, where folkie troubador Sufjan Stevens was performing. On arriving, we found scalpers selling tickets for less than we had paid for them, but the fact that was had tickets was really enough at that point. You may remember Sufjan as the auteur of
my favorite album of last year, and Cindy is a big fan as well (probably bigger than me, actually). As such, we were both excited to see such a loved and talented musician perform...
...And, at such a beautiful venue. This is how these semi-serious artistic concerts should be presented. Not in some soulless arena, or a converted warehouse with shit sound, but in a beautiful theater that complements the grandeur of the music. We arrived, grabbed some beers, browsed the merchandise, and grabbed our seats.
We caught the end of the opening set by My Brightest Diamond, which had sort of a PJ Harvey-meets-Bjork kind of thing going on. Nice enough, but nothing that's inspired me to hunt down her album or anything.
At intermission (my, this is a serious show, isn't it?), we met up with Dan, who, in typically lucky fashion, had scored tickets by giving a ride to Houston chanteuse, Devendra Banhart-associate, and "freak folkie" Jana Hunter. He introduced us, everyone but me had cigarettes, and a cute-but-maybe-a-little-crazy redhead that works with Becca introduced herself to me after recognizing my "Music + Science = Sexy" t-shirt.
Intermission ended and it was time for the main event to begin. Sufjan's ~20 piece band came out, adorned with butterfly wings, and then the man himself, in bird wings, which caused him to have to move sideways and not turn to the right or left to much in an effor to avoid knocking over equipment.
The set was absolutely beautiful. "Chicago" was great. "John Wayne Gacy, Jr." was chilling. "Casimir Pulaski Day" was devastating. "Detroit, Lift Up Your Weary Head! (Rebuild! Restore! Reconsider!)" was starkly beautiful. Material from Seven Swans was good as was other material from
Michigan and
Illinois. Material from the
Illinois outakes compilation
The Avalanche was merely servicable, for the most part.
Overall, a stunningly great show from an extremely talented musician in a beautiful venue with sound that didn't suck. It was completely worth all the time Cindy spent tracking down tickets.
After turning down free treats from Austin's own
Ice Cream Man (if I had known who he was and why he was giving away ice cream, I probably would have taken it, in retrospect), Cindy, Dan and I walked over to good ol' Lovejoy's to meet with some of Cindy's high school friends. I enjoyed their espresso stout while she caught up with her friends.
After that, Dan went to catch up with Toni and we regrettably moved on to 6th street. The flaming Dr. Peppers that resulted from that move were quite a pleasant side effect, particularly given the impressive show the bartender put on, lining up beer glasses in a U shape, stacking 151/amaretto shots between them on their rims, using 151 to breathe fire to light them, and then knocking the shots into the drinks, domino-style.
But after that it was on to some crappy dance club or another. More beer was consumed; Dan (who rejoined us) and I bitched about the place, and pretty soon after that we called it a night. Dan balked at taking Cindy out southwest to Sara's place ("That's way the fuck out there!" even though it's no farther than half the bars we go to in Houston), he dropped us off at my car, I dropped Cindy off, and then returned to Becca's place, put some vinyl on, and went to bed.
9/16
The next afternoon, Becca and I went to
Magnolia Cafe south, and after a brief wait due to Austin City Limits traffic, we had some of their sweet, sweet magmud queso and split an order of breakfast tacos.
After that, Becca took me to Art House to catch an exhibit there, a guy who did true multimedia art, incorporating video, sculpture, photography, and painting.
After that, on to the Donkey Show to see a screening of someone's crappy, overacted video art, which quickly drove me to the backyard in search of beer. We hung out there for a while until I heard from Kristin, who had been at ACL and was going to stay at Becca's. I met her there, gave her a chance to shower, and then we took off for downtown in Becca's car (which had parking priveleges), parked, and headed for the Parish. We caught up with Cindy, Sara, and co., where I attempted to score some "approval from the best friend" points with Sara by repeatedely hauling her bag from
Jazz (the restaurant downstairs) to the
the Parish (the venue upstairs, where I had previously seen Built to Spill's Doug Martsch play) after they ate, and then backstairs when they decided to have cigarettes and Kristin and I decided to have dinner.
Jazz makes a good blackened chicken alfredeaux (add some andouille!), which Kristin and I each had a half order of (ordered at different times; ordering a full order to split probably would have made more sense), and Cindy ordered some benets.
Then, finally, back up to the Parish, where we waited through the opening act. Thankfully, the Parish had nice, cheap drinks (and God bless them for that). Lonestar was in abundance, and Cindy joined me in a shot of whiskey to help me get my buzz on. It was, of course, the cheap stuff, and she recoiled a bit; I took the opportunity to give her a nice big kiss, grossing Kristin out in the process. At some point, I used their facilities, was proselytized to about how great this new band Gnarls Barkley was, and lightly burned my hands under the faucets that only worked on hot.
Anyway, Okervil River eventually came on and put on a spectacular show. They're at their best in their hometown, apparently, and, though you might never think it possible, Will Sheff's performance was even more impassioned and insane. Cindy's friends got a bit tired and took off, not sufficiently impressed, but of course I thoroughly enjoyed the show. A hihglight was my first chance to hear "Love to a Monster", a song of their recent Australian tour EP, and my new favorite Okkervil River song.
So yeah, great show. Really high quality all around. I think afterwards we called it a night. The power was out in the parking garage, but thankfully as we figured out we were trapped, security showed up and let us out. Back to Becca's place for some sleep.
9/17
Kristin took off, and I met Becca over on the East Side at Cajun-influenced soul food joint
Hoover's. The two of us enjoyed some bloody marys and chatted with the over-the-hill bartender who had attended ACL the previous day. I enjoyed their "breakfast mufaletta" which wasn't particularly mufaletta-like, and their cheese grits.
Becca took me by her new house to show it to me, and then we made the mistake of going into Art Palace, where I found some art that I really liked, would agonize over for the next few days, and eventually decided to purchase for a largish sum of money. More on that later. I took Becca record shopping at
Backspin Records, where I had some credit after helping Zach out with some web stuff, as a late graduation present. Then I dropped her off at home, went way down south to pick up Cindy from a friend's house, back up north to give Becca her key, and then finally on out of town...
Labels: art, Austin, bars, concerts, restaurants